Thursday, May 21, 2009

Living the surf culture

If any long time surfers were to read this they would probably be cringing at the thought of me encouraging more people to invade their local break. Some groups of surfers and usually most locals don't like the fact that more and more people are heading to the beach and paddling out in the hope of becoming the next Kelly Slater. Not only do they clutter up the waves they also mean more traffic and rubbish for the region. 
On some respect I feel that they have the right to be pissed off... You can drive all the way to the coast only to find that there is 20 wona be surfers all sitting on the one bank getting in each others way and if you sit back watching you will see that only about half of them are actually catching waves.

I enjoy the culture that surfing has developed with in my family, myself and my two kids (one 11, one 9) all frequently spend many days at the beach learning and surfing together. This is something I treasure and I take pride in being a part of my children's development, not only are they becoming very confident in the water they are both learning about the effects of mother nature and how all the combined elements of our planet play their part in creating the perfect waves (or not)...This kind of learning and knowledge is helping them build a healthy understanding of the way things work on a global level.

As with everything in life I do believe in "give & take". 

If you do find yourself sitting out the back of a beach break some where and your surrounded by local surfers "give" them respect. This is their surf spot and have probably been carving waves here for a long time and in some cases their whole lives. You will usually find that if you stay out of their way when your in the water there is more of a chance they may "take" the time to talk to you and possibly give you advice or encouragement. 

Surfing etiquette is not hard to learn as it is all based upon your manners and respect for the locals and their beach.

GRAB YOUR SURF BOARDS,
GET INTO THE CULTURE AND ENJOY MOTHER NATURES GIFTS!!!


Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Surf talk for the surf wise

Ever thought about taking up a new Hobie, sport or interest and dismissed it because you think your too old?
All I can say to you is "get over it!!"
Growing up for me was great, I had lots of opportunities to experience all kinds of different activities & sports. Most of them being water related ie, Swimming, free diving (snorkling), boating, fishing, skiing, sailing... the list goes on and I am very grateful mainly thanks to my mother for making all these things happen in my life.
My latest chapter of adventures have come via my new found passion for Surfing...At the age of 28 (I am now 32) I was presented with the opportunity to purchase two surf boards that for second hand boards were in very good condition. As it happened a friend of mine was with me at the time and decided if I brought one he'd buy the other. (My friend being 7 years older than me) With a quick exchange we were now both fully equipped to start carving waves!! We had just purchased to very good used surf boards with grips and leashes also a board bag to cart them around in. We both already had wet suits so with a quick stop at the surf shop to get some board wax we headed straight to the beach (Raglans Manu bay). This as we learned was really quite foolish as we were so keen to get out there and have a go we didn't take any notice of the fact that it was pushing 4-6ft solid waves (from the carpark it didn't look that big). For myself I had the grace of 12 years as a competitive swimmer to keep me confident but as for my mate I wasn't aware at the time but he couldn't swim AT ALL!!
Least to say we got our back sides kicked and in fact we were both probably lucky to make it out alive... anyone who's surfed Raglan or any west coast beach they would tell you that it is not a place for novices who can't swim!!

We have come a long way since that day and now we are both heading to our local break as often as we can (Him being on the west coast & me being on the east coast). We have both developed well with our skills and have chalked up lots of the basic fundamentals for being able to call ourselves actual "Surfers"...Having started by paddling out to get a hiding from one of mother natures most powerful elements we have now grown to become actually quite competent and to speak for myself I could relate my passion for the sport with some kind of serious addiction!!

If you've read this article I can only assume that becoming a surfer is something that strikes you as a good idea or maybe you are already surfing but finding it hard to get your groove on.
If I'm right then you may want to take some advise from someone who has learnt the hard way...(still learning!!)...

7 Things to consider before you learn to surf...
  • If you don't already know how, learn to swim...(this I believe is the most important step but others would argue that, I do know some very good surfers who can't swim)
  • Don't spend too much on your first surf board...(it is important to get a board that will suit you but if you find that all of a sudden your allergic to sea water then you won't have wasted too much money)...like with any sport or activity you need to find out if it is actually something you will continue to do.
  • Get to know people who already surf or find someone who would like to have a go at it as well...(it's always better to surf with a buddy)
  • Read all the surf magazines and watch surfing movies, these are full of helpful information and will help you get a good feel for the sport.
  • Get lessons...(If your like me you probably wouldn't even entertain the idea of "lessons" but there are some very good surf tutors & surf schools available out there) Lessons will definitely help you and will be surfing faster than if you try on your own.
  • Only go out in conditions that are within your ability...(Surfing is fun but can also be very dangerous if your not prepared)
  • Some people learn faster than others so my most important advice is...BE PERSISTENT, STICK AT IT, SPEND AS MUCH TIME AS YOU CAN DOING IT and DON'T GIVE UP!!!

Just remember your never to old to try something new. Be persistent with your efforts. Be respectful of the local surfers and the beaches you visit.
Most importantly have FUN!!!